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Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Dodge Transmission Output Speed Sensor


Rear Differential Speed Sensor above is mistakenly replaced because of a code for the Transmission Output Speed Sensor in the pictures below.



Top and Side View of Transmission Output Speed Sensor and installed on Left Side of Transmission Tail-shaft.

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This is another inside baseball type post concerning auto and truck repair. The first picture is of the Rear Differential Speed Sensor which is mistakenly replaced because of a code involving the Transmission Output Speed Sensor located in the left side bottom of the transmission tail-shaft. The three pictures below the one of the Differential Speed Sensor are of the Transmission Output Speed Sensor and location on a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup truck with 3.9L engine and three speed automatic transmission without overdrive. It came in with a check engine light on and intermittent stalling when slowing from freeway speeds into traffic. The code was straight forward – PO720 – Output Speed Sensor Circuit. The dealer stocks six of these. They are a common failure item. I am doing this post because the speed sensor on the differential in the first picture is often mistakenly replaced for the Transmission Output Speed Sensor code. Replacing the one on the rear differential will not get rid of the code or the problem.
I have had a number of Do It Yourself customers change the wrong speed sensor after getting a free code read at a parts store. This is mostly for their benefit because I don’t get any laughs out of people parts changing the wrong part on their vehicle, especially in these tough times. The Transmission Output Speed Sensor number on this particular vehicle and many others in the late nineties and early 2000’s is Mopar #04800879. They are not all the same so removing the sensor on the affected vehicle and jotting down the number is the best course to follow.

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:
 
For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.
That’s all for this update, but if you’re appreciative of the information, here is a link to my Author's Page on Amazon with all my novels listed. Thank You! Every little bit helps my writing gig. :)


452 comments:

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michael said...

I have a 2002 dodge stratus that is in limp mode. I have replaced the input speed sensor and the tss. my speedometer still works fine. thats why i haven't replaced the output speed sensor. the only code that comes up is the p0700 general transmission code. should i go ahead and replace the output speed sensor?

BernardL said...

The output speed sensor will normally set a code, Michael. Chrysler has had a lot of problems with their Transmission Control Modules, including bad new ones right out of the box. The PO700 code usually points to a module problem, especially if accompanied by a PO605 Internal Rom Error Code, but sometimes just a PO700 Code. If you want to try something before getting it checked out, the output speed sensor can't hurt anything, but I'd sure like to read about it if it actually fixes a PO700 code.

michael said...

well, i'll give it a shot. i just don't think the car is worth dumping $400 into it. Every shop around here wants to charge me $50 just to read the tcm codes. if all else fails, at least the car is worth $250 in scrap metal. lol

michael said...

Well, replacing the output speed sensor solved nothing. So, I'm with you on this one. Has to be the TCM. Anyone want to buy a 2002 Dodge Stratus that needs a TCM?

BernardL said...

Michael, you still have the option of having a good transmission shop check it out for you. It may not be as bad as you think. All you'd be out is the diagnostic price, but you need to question the shop to make sure they're going to do more than read codes.

Anonymous said...

i have a 96 dodge ram 1500 5.9l and i love it. however everytime i take my foot off the gas the rpms drop dramatically and sometimes the truck will even cut out on me. i replaced the idle air control valve and the throttle position sensor and it still does it. could that be the speed sensor?

BernardL said...

Normally, Anon, when the speed sensor causes a stall, it also sets the code I listed in this post. There are a host of things that can cause what you're experiencing. Without knowing scanner data, and some idea of the maintenance you have performed, it's impossible for me to make a guess at what's wrong. A simple thing you could try is get the tank down to about an eighth of a tank and fill it with high octane Chevron or Unocal 76 gas. If that makes a difference over the days following, you may have partially clogged fuel injectors, or you've just been using cheap gas.

Anonymous said...

thanks for the post! i just replaced the speed sensor in my 04 ram 3500 with the 5.9 ho, when i pulled the old sensor out a bunch of tranny fluid came pouring out, i had just got home so the truck wasnt cooled down...i was curious because i saw a previous post saying there shouldnt be any tranny fluid that comes out. would it be bacause the truck wasnt cooled down when i changed it?
thanks
josh

BernardL said...

Yes, Josh, changing it before cool down can be the cause, or you had the truck on a slant when you changed it.

Lester said...

I have a 97 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with a Cummins and auto transmission. It has a high performance transmission good up to about 600hp (truck has maybe 300hp), and lately it's been acting a little strange. I pull up to a stop light, and the truck acts like it's dropped out of gear. It no longer pulls away at idle if you take the foot off the throttle. But if you just about floor it the truck will get moving and after 50 feet or so it acts normally. I can drive the truck hard and it doesn't have any issues. I feel no slipping while underway, towing or climbing steep hills. Ideas? Thanks!

BernardL said...

Lester, I'd need more diagnostic data to give you an intelligent guess. You may have a major problem with the trans front pump sealing or the governor transducer, but without a detailed scan and pressure port checks, you're flying in the dark. You need to have it checked out at a reputable shop.

vincent sines said...

I have a 2000 dakota and have mistakenly put 3 quarts of atf3 in it over the course of the past 9 months. recently it has not wanted to shift out of first gear but once it does the trans works fine till I shut the engine off. sometimes it will go for miles before its first shift. after discovering I should had used atf 4 I imediatly dropped the pan and changed out the four quarts drained and it started shifting again for about 50 miles and started again, drained the pan and it shifts again, but I am getting a output sensor code. what is the connection here with fresh fluid and the shifts if the sensor is involved also?

BernardL said...

I doubt the ATF3 and 4 mix-up has anything to do with it, Vincent. Go ahead and replace the speed sensor with an OEM sensor and see if your shifting improves. If it doesn't, you'll need to take it in for a more thorough diagnostic at a trans shop to test port pressures and more in depth scanner data. It may be a governor pressure transducer causing the shift problem or something more serious you won't be able to detect on your own.

For checking a transmission like you have the way to tell if the problem is in the trans or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the trans in drive. You should see main line pressure and the trans should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the trans goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Anonymous said...

thank you for the advice. What is throwing me off is the cosistancy of adding fresh fluid or changing it bringing back the shifting. I dropped the pan and changed the fluid again just before the last entry and vavoom ! its shifting again. haha If/when it starts not shifting out of first my first step will be to change the sensor, and if that dont work I will take it to a trans shop, the process you mentioned is beyond my capabilities so far as a facility and equiptment to do so. thank you again !

Anonymous said...

Own a 97 dodge caravan. Had the tranny rebuilt 3 weeks ago. Eveything was fine up until yesterday when the transmission started to make a whining noise, started to slip. The fluid level was very high past the top mark as well as being very hot. Have 8 codes such as gear 1-3 incorrect ratio, transaxle malfunction, overdrive hydraulic pressure switch circuit, 24 pressure switch check malfunction, P1698. Tranny seems to work ok until after heating up. Solenoid or sensor?

BernardL said...

Anon, my guess is you've had a major failure in the rebuilt transmission. Although the P1698 points toward a possible TCM or PCM problem, the slipping, too high fluid, and overheating point toward mechanical failure such as a front pump seal failure. Take it back to the rebuilder.

albert said...

thank you mr bernard for your help i replaced my speed senser 98 dodge 3500 4x4 tran shifts all gears thank you albert.diesel

BernardL said...

I'm glad you were able to fix it, Albert. Thanks for the update.

Anonymous said...

I've located the transmission O/P speed sensor on my 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie. however not sure if i unscrew the sensor itself or disconnect the wiring? Also, is there a tab to disconnect the wire side from the sensor? Thanx!

BernardL said...

Anon, just from your questions, it would seem like you should pay a shop to replace your sensor. If you decide to replace it yourself, then yes, you must use the tab to release the wiring connector before you unscrew the sensor.

Anonymous said...

2002 Dodge 25oo cummins auto trans goes from 1 to 3 before it slides into overdrive, no 2nd. Accidently put turned the overdrive off while I was doing about 75 and lost it. Someone told me that it was only a sensor but being a novice.....

BernardL said...

I doubt it's any sensor, Anon. You may have a Transducer or Governor Pressure Solenoid problem, but you would need to have the tests performed as I've outlined in the original post above under NOTE - because you could also have a blown transmission.

Anonymous said...

This is Anon from 8/13/2012. I know my question sounded really amaturish but i made out Ok and saved myself a hundred bucks replacing the O/p shaft speed sensor myself. Engine light is out and code has been erased. Truck runnin fine! Thanx for the feedback Bernard! U R appreciated!

BernardL said...

Thanks for the update, Anon 8/13. I'm glad it worked out for you.

Martin said...

Hi there Bernard. Have a '97 Dodge Ram B3500 with 5.2L. The cruise control is sometimes intermittent around 95 - 105 Km per hour. Not always a problem but annoying, seems to be only on hot days. No other symptons, hoses appear to be good. Could this be related to the speed sensor, or some other sensor? Thanks

BernardL said...

Without scanner data, I can't give you anything as far as the speed sensor. My guess would be a corroded or malfunctioning Servo on your cruise control. It's the one that a vacuum hose goes to near the battery. That is a guess.

Martin said...

OK thanks, will check that. Martin

Anonymous said...

i just replace my output speed sensor 99 dakota 4x4 v6 3.9L...i was told that not much trans fluid would come out but about 3 qts did,,,is this normal...nut replaced fluid yet...thanks

BernardL said...

That is not a usual fluid loss, unless you were on a slope with the front end up. If the vehicle is level, very little fluid comes out, Anon.

Anonymous said...

Bernard,

I have a 98 dodge ram 1500 5.9. ABS and Brake light stay on at times, but not every time. Usually only if have driven and shut off and restart. Never on first start of the day. I replaced the rear sensor but did not resolve. Tried to get codes, but was told they were "general". Mechanic thought it was a sticky relay in control module, but had someone else tell me I should replace the output speed sensor. Could this be the issue? Everything seems to work fine. If I replace, it looks like I can just unscrew it and it clears the plate it sits above (if I am right on the sensor location), will I lose transmission fluid? I appreciate any insight.

Thanks!

BernardL said...

I don't know what you mean by 'general' codes, Anon. Either there are codes being set or there are not. If those lights are coming on, some code is being set. If it is setting the PO720 code, then it's possible the speed sensor on the transmission is causing your problem. If the vehicle is on a level surface, very little fluid comes out, but put a pan under it if you plan on parts changing. Make sure you get an OEM sensor from the dealer if you do.

Without more data, such as all codes from the ABS and ECM systems, or other symptoms, I can't give you anymore idea as to cause.

Anonymous said...

Hello as a woman working on my
Dodge durrango. I want to thank you!! I had done everything to my transmission but change that output sensor. I knew the code 0720 and told the dealer but they gave me the sensor for the rear instead of on tranny. I went today and got the right 20.00 piece and my tranny is now perfect!!! It was stuck in first gear and now like new. Thanks again.

BernardL said...

I'm glad it worked out for you, Anon. Thanks for putting the update here.

jim said...

Hi Bernard, sounds like I'am having the same type of problem, mine will not shift out of 1st,"2004 ram 2500 diesel" so I removed the diesel transmission fuze and it will now let me shift manually 1st to 2sc to 3rd, I know you would be guessing at this point, but would you start by replacing the transmission output speed sensor? Thanks Jim

BernardL said...

No, Jim, I would start out by doing the test mentioned in my note I added in my main post. I suspect one of three things with yours: the trans is worn out, the filter is plugged, or the govenor pressure sensor and transducer is acting up. Those are just guesses, because without scanner data or doing the pressure check outlined in my post at the bottom, you'll be parts changing. You can try the OP Speed Sensor if you'd like. It's not that expensive, but you would be better off having it diagnosed at a shop.

victor said...

i have a 2001 dodge ram 1500 2wd and my check ebgine light is on. error code is reading p1740 which could be my torque converter or overdrive solenoid. the truck drive great but sometimes i dont have 1st gear unless i do it manually. i tried ordering the overdrive solenoid from autozone and the only thing they have for overdrive is a overdrive switch. can you help me on this?

BernardL said...

Victor, you should have the pressure checks outlined in the post above at the bottom done to confirm the problem. If you're going to parts change, then please get the part from the dealer. They will be the only ones that can supply a reliable one for what you want to do anyway. They will need your VIN number to get you the right part, whichever one you decide to parts change.

Anonymous said...

Hi Benard, I hope you can help, heres my issue. I have a 1995 Dodge Ram with the 318. It belonged to my nephew and he was several hours away and ask me to come get him and bring a trailer that his transmission had gone out. I did and parked the truck at my house where it had sat for about 1 1/2 years. He finaly told me I could have it that he wasn't going to fix it so I put on a new battery and it ran fine for about a day. Then it started acting up like the transmission was going out but I'm not sure thats it. It will crank and idle fine shifts into gears fine but if I go down the road it will start to lunge at about 10-20 MPH and about 30 is tops. It revs up like im going 100MPH but still about 30 is tops (on level ground) it will slow down going up hill. It lunges in drive or reverse. I have been told torqe converter by some but others said if it was fine for a day than that wouldn't be it and i would be able to hear it while it was ideling. Any ideas?

BernardL said...

Re-read my original post, Anon. You need to get the codes if any, and have a shop do the testing I listed under the note in my post. That's the only way you'll know what your next step is. It could be a myriad of things such as front pump seal internal leak, governor solenoid, plugged filter, or just a worn transmission. It's impossible to pinpoint without testing.

Unknown said...

Hi Benard, great blog by the way. I have a 2001 Ram 1500 4x4 that will not shift out of first easily, rpm's go very high. It has been doing this for almost a year now. I took it to a shop and they put a scanner on it and said it didn't tell them anything but after driving it said "it's a Dodge you need a new tranny". I don't like that. After reading a lot online I went out and did some troubleshooting. I found the sensor on the rear diff is shorted open. The sensor on the trans is not shorted and the one on the transfer case seems fine as well. Could the rear diff sensor be my fix? I am fearing that it might be the governor pressure transducer that you have mentioned a few times. I am probably just going to start changing sensors one at a time until I get to the governor pressure transducer because I will take that somewhere to get done. Any advice?

BernardL said...

Joshua, the revving without moving usually means a failure, but I agree with you about changing a sensor that is obviously bad. When you arrive at the point about trying the transducer, try getting the tests done I list under the Note part of the original post. Here it is again:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Anonymous said...

I have a 2004 Intrepid here are the problems I am having with this car ...I put my key in to start it I get nothing everything turns on but the engine does not turn over so I turn it off and try it again and most times it will start on the second or third try and also I will put my car in gear to drive and sometimes when I am driving up to 60 it will start to stay on the 3 RPM and most time when I turn the car off it will go into normal gear what is causing all this grief with the car ?

BernardL said...

Impossible for me to come up with much with no diagnostic data, Anon. My guess with the no start, but all the lights and power normal would be a security system problem. The driving problem I can't even guess at without at least a code indication. Make sure your power and ground leads are secure and your battery in top notch shape. You may have corrosion build up on the battery caused by its location. Disruptions in power or ground connections can cause memory loss in the body control computer running your security system, and unusual engine malfunctions.

Unknown said...

You just saved me a trip. Thanks!

seand said...

Hey there bernard i have a 1994 dodge ram 2500 12 valve cummins automatic trans 4x4. initionaly the darn thing would not leave the gate unless you floored it and then it would take off. once the vehicle was hot she would take off and shift properly. a local shop diagnosed it to be faulty or degrade seals so i purchase a known good used transmision and had it instaled. unit looked good with aftermarket torqe convertor and new pump. valve body was clean and pan was empty of debris. my new problem is this. truck shifts into gear starts off and then seams to slip out of gear if i ease up on the throttel she takes off again normaly. no check light yet but i have not driven it far. any ideas? i forgot to mention the new filter and fluid atf+4

BernardL said...

I'm sorry, Seand, but without diagnostic and oil pressure data as mentioned in my original post I would have no way of knowing how you should proceed besides taking your truck into a professional transmission shop to have it checked.

Anonymous said...

Hi bernard,
I have a ram 2500 2005. I wS driving and the truck felt like it just went into neutral and slowly rolled to a stop. The truck will not move. It shifts into all the gears but just revs and will roll if pushed. When in park it does stay in park. You have any ideas whats going on?????
Thanks
MIKE

Anonymous said...

Hi bernard,
I have a ram 2500 2005. I wS driving and the truck felt like it just went into neutral and slowly rolled to a stop. The truck will not move. It shifts into all the gears but just revs and will roll if pushed. When in park it does stay in park. You have any ideas whats going on?????
Thanks
MIKE

BernardL said...

You may have had a governor pressure transducer or solenoid failure - or a trans failure period. If you're going to guess rather than have it checked out then you can gamble and replace the governor pressure sensor and solenoid if you have a factory manual. A shop would do a pressure check as outlined in the original post towards the bottom.

'For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.'

Unknown said...

Hi BERNARD Really need some help .I have read through here and cant find the same problem im having....when i put my truck in gear sometimes it clanks and the truck jerks and when i stop say at a light it stops and then it feels like someone rear ended me and sometimes it causes the truck to die but starts right back up.so yesterday i replaced the ypi snd trsns filter there was a small pile of fine shavings but not too much.this did not fix the problem.i have no codes on my truck snd no gauge problems no problems driving either runs and shifts fine...its a 95 ram 1500 utomatic 5.9 4x4 please help thank you

BernardL said...

I can't help you, Robert. Your vehicle needs a hands on diagnostic check. If the torque converter clutch stays engaged while stopping, it will stall out the vehicle. Why it stays engaged or something broken on the inside can't be solved on the Internet.

Unknown said...

I have a 1998 dodge 1500 automatic I put trans in and now the od off light is on and so is trans temp won't shift to od trans not hot new cooler need ideas email ( redheadedchevyman@yahoo.com

BernardL said...

Thomas, as with Robert in the comments above, I can't help you. You need a real diagnostic check, including pressure readings to determine what's wrong. If you've put in a used transmission, or one that is not an exact match for your vehicle, that could be your explanation.

Unknown said...

BernardL. i have a 2005 dodge dakota 3.7 v6 and i need replace the input speed sensor but i dont know where is located.

Unknown said...

BernardL. i have a 2005 dodge dakota 3.7 v6 and i need replace the input speed sensor but i dont know where is located.

Unknown said...

Hi bernard,i know this posting was for a different code, but I need help and was hoping for a minute of your time.i have a 1998 dodge 1500 4x4 5.9L.my abs light and brake light on the dash are on.i ran the code and it came as po740.i replaced the overdrive/tcc sensor,filter and made no difference.my overdrive switch on the shift lever does nothing whe you press it.it is kind of gutless too and it takes all you got to get it to 45 and 2000 rpm.any suggestions will be greatly appreciated,thanks ABE

BernardL said...

Sorry, Jaime, I can’t help you with that. You need to either get a factory manual or go to the dealer and ask to see their location schematic when you buy the sensor.

Abe, your next step is to do the governor pressure test I have at the bottom of my post under Note. Have it done by a professional. That test will determine if you’re having governor pressure problems or the trans is shot.

Bill said...

Bernard,
I have a 2001 Dodge 1500 w/5.2L.
My problem is on take off the transmission does not shift until thr RPM's are much higher than they should be. Except for when I try to pass it seems to shift just fine. When I step on the gas to pass it jumps all the way to first and over revs until I let of the gas. Is this a faulty output speed sensor?

BernardL said...

Impossible to say without scan data, Bill. It seems more like a governor pressure solenoid problem. You need to take it in to be scanned first, and then depending on the results, have the governor pressure checked as in the NOTE on my original post outlines.

Unknown said...

hi my 2000 dodge ram 1500 3.9L is going crazy it will jerk a lot when it gets to 50mph and i can mash the pedal to the floor and it almost does nothing for at least 10 seconds and then suddenly the truck will get to 4500 rpms from 2500 some times it will run and drive like normal but most of the time it does as i stated aboe it gave me the PO720 code so im gona try to replace the output speed sensor also my truck randomly wouldnt start and when ever i mashed my brakes the dash lights would come on like i turned the headlights on when i let off the breaks the dash lights go off i put the trans into nutral and let it roll back some then it crunk right up

Unknown said...

oh and it lakes about 5 to 10 seconds to start the truck idk why it does that either its like delayed but it doesnt make a difference if i pump the gas hold it to the floor or weather its hot or cold it always starts like that

BernardL said...

Do the obvious, and make sure you correct the PO 720 code first. Then rescan it if you still have problems, Daniel.

Unknown said...

After I get that cleared you think you can help me out with the other problems? I really love my truck and I want to keep it as long as possible but right now it seems like its slowly crapping the bed lol I never had this many problems with my old 318 1500

BernardL said...

There is a limit to what I can do on the Internet, Daniel. I can give you a few ideas if it sets another code, but your truck may require hands on testing for fuel pressure, trans pressure tests as in the original post note at the bottom, or an exhaust back-pressure test.

Unknown said...

I replaced the output speed sensor and now the truck seems to shift fine. The prob is now my transmission light is staying on. Is that normal? 2001 ram1500 3.9

BernardL said...

Kristee, I'd have to know what codes are still set in the computer. You might need to disconnect the battery for thirty seconds to reboot everything. Then, if you get any lights, I'd need to know exactly what light you're mentioning, and what if any codes are being set.

Unknown said...

All the lights have gone out and everything is working fine. You probably saved me a lot of money. My only question now is should I have used dielectric grease on the plug?

BernardL said...

If you have a lot of rain, snow, and road salt where you are, then it would be a good idea, Kristee.

Unknown said...

Thank you very much Benard. This is a great blog.

BernardL said...

Thanks for the feedback, Kristee.

Unknown said...

Hi my 2005 2500 dodge looses power after second gear and rubs up to 5000 rpms but I take it out of drive to second it does not loose no power but I can't drive pass 30 mph eather any advice please and thankyou

BernardL said...

Ivy, I need more data than a couple of symptoms to give you even an intelligent guess. You need to take it in for a diagnostic check. Without scanner data, I can't even give you a guess.

Unknown said...

I have a 1999 dodge ram auto trans 4x4 5.9L 360cu in. For 2 months truck slips from 1 to 2nd gear. It stays in 1st for aboit a second before slipping. Fliuid was red and no metal slivers in pan. No check engine or other lights on. Please help. Thank you

BernardL said...

You need to have the test I outlined at the bottom of my original post performed, Arthur. There is no magic fix I can give you. Here's the test:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Unknown said...

Hello was wondering if you could help me or could give me some advice. I have an 02 dodge Durango 5.9 SLT. When I start to go about after 1/2 mile or less my truck will start to lose speed and will stop going. i have to turn off my truck and wait about one or two minutes and then turn it back on and go. What could be the problem. Can you help please.

BernardL said...

Elizabeth, I can't help you without scanner diagnostic data. If you are setting codes, I may be able to help or advise. Without codes or specific diagnostic data, I can't even make a guess. Have you read the other comments? There are many, and some may have symptoms like yours.

Unknown said...

it just happened today have to get a scan done yes, I have read the comments and most of the are the same except I am not having problems shifting. it just wont go but it will still rev when hitting the gas just no movement. until I turn it off and let it sit for a minute

BernardL said...

Elizabeth, I've had a few Dodge trucks with your engine configuration that have had bad crank angle sensors causing a problem as you describe. They also have Power Control Module problems, especially if the scanner loses contact with the module during the problem - but you can't just throw parts at these things. You'll need a diagnostic check run on it.

Unknown said...

ok thank you i'm going to have a dig. test done and try to find out the problem and then I will reply back to you and see if you could help thank you I appreciate your advise and time.

Jason said...

I just bought a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.9L. The speedometer is not working correctly, around 30MPH the needle moves but not in a linear fashion and below 30MPH it drops to zero. No codes show up on the reader. I have replaced the rear differential speed sensor with no change. I am going to test the Speed sensor in the transfer case tomorrow. Any thoughts to what else this might be?

Unknown said...

Hi Bernhard I have a 2002 dodge cummins 2500 my speedometer bounce up and down and all over when driving it but if my abs and brake light is on then it works fine what do I need to do to get it fixed and the rear sensor is new

BernardL said...

Zach,without scanner data, I can only guess you have a problem with the cluster itself, or corrosion on the ground connections or sensor connection. Behind the drivers front tire inner liner - there is a square connector where all the wires run through. You can get to the connector from the botom of the truck. There may be water contamination inside the connector.

Unknown said...

Hi benard I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 5.2l 4x4 and my abs light and brake light is on and I replaced the trans speed sensor and the reaend sensor and my abs light and brake light is still on and my speed odometer was working and just quit and the check engine light came one and I took it to the shop and they read the code and it says the rearend sensor was causeing it said the code said it had and open circuit and I traced it all down and didn't find anything worng with it no broken wires or anything could u help me with this problem thanks billy

BernardL said...

Billy, other than asking if you replaced the sensors with OEM parts, I can only tell you to read the comment right above yours I did for Zack.

Unknown said...

hey Bernard I need help I have a 99 dodge ram 1500 5.9(gas) 4x4 auto today it started acting funny it wont take off in drive or 2 gear but will take off in 1st gear then at 10-20 mph I can put it IN drive and it drives fine but when I stop I gotta take off in 1 gear

BernardL said...

Chris, I can't test your vehicle on the Internet, and as with many other comments here, I can't even guess without scanner data. Here is yet another repeat from the original post for what you'll need done at a trans shop.

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Unknown said...

Hey Bernard I have a 1998 dodge ram 1500 with 5.9 it starts and runs but when I push the gas pedal it wants to stall at first it would not go over 40 mph but now it won't go over 15 mph any ideas could this be that output sensor on trans let me know where you would start

BernardL said...

Start with a full diagnostic check at a reputable repair shop, Cody. That's all you can do without vehicle data. Fixing cars and trucks isn't a magic trick. Testing is required to get answers.

Zach said...

I have a 2003 dodge Durango 4x4 4.7 auto I was driving down the interstate about 70 mph and it shut off and would not start back I got towed home and now it just cranks and gets no fire to the coil packs the computer , crankshaft and camshaft sensor are new and it throws a po700 code

BernardL said...

Zach, The transmission control fault code PO700 may be a glitching transmission solenoid pack, but it wouldn't shut the engine down.

Any 5 volt sensor can shut down communication to the computer. I had one come in that had a bad AC Transducer sensor that interrupted computer communication. I don't think you have any choice but to take it to a shop where they can pinpoint which sensor may be taking down the system, or if the computer itself may be defective.

Unknown said...

Yes my 2003 dodge ram 1500 has a slight hesitation in power it can be felt barely but felt when speeds of about 55 any suggestions

Unknown said...

I have a 2003 dodge ram that has a slight skip going about 55 runs good besides sometimes you can crank it and it will rev up slightly then go back down a few times before getting to a good idle can you help

BernardL said...

If you've read any of the past comments, John, you know I don't have a clue what's wrong with your truck without scanner data. It could be anything from cheap gas to a bad torque converter.

Unknown said...

I have a 96 2wd 1/2 ton and I'm wondering why I have a sensor in the rear of my tail/overdrive section? Its a plastic gear that is spun by the splines on the output shaft. I noticed on a 98 it doesn't have one?

BernardL said...

Colby, I'm not sure I understand what your question is. Designs change from year to year. If you want design info, get the OEM shop manual from some place like Ebay. You'll be able to ID the exact transmission you have, and find out about the inner workings. If you're having a problem with your truck, give me the details of what you're experiencing and any code information that is coming up on a scanner.

Unknown said...

Hey Benard. I have a 94 Dakota. Starts great when its cold but when u drive it a while and shut it off sometimes u have to let it sit for about an hr or 2 till it cools down... and from time to time the trany slips. What do u think?

BernardL said...

Too little info to even make a guess, Robert. That one is pre-OBDII, so it has its own special plug in for a scanner. I'm afraid you'll have to take it in and have it professionally diagnosed.

Unknown said...

Hey Bernhard
I have a 1996 Dodge ram 2500 Cummins with a 47RE. The truck rund great but the 47 acts up.
It will shift Down from 3 or 4 gear while driving as if it goese out off lockup.I usually happens around 2000 rpm and by pressin the accelerator pedal hard It sometimes goes back into overdrive.
I changed the filter,oil output sensor and solenoids and it still acts funny. No codes. no engine light.

regard Jacob

Unknown said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
BernardL said...

Jacob, my advice is to have this test done as noted in the original post:

Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:


For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Anonymous said...

Hello. I have 97 Ram 2500 diesel with 197K miles on it. Several months ago this strange problem suddenly started: Many times when I drive it the truck will not accelerate on even the slightest incline. On normal hills it will continue to drop speed until it settles at about 30 MPH. No matter how far down I press the gas pedal, the RPMs and the MPH do not increase. I've had it to shop that replaced an idle sensor and some other sensor (sorry, cant remember), but the problem remains. I've replaced the fuel filter, air filter and checked for vacuum leaks and the like. Every other shop I talk to has no idea what the problem could be. Do you have any ideas? Thanks so much. - Walter

BernardL said...

Walter, my best guess without scanner data would be a plugged up catalytic converter, or worn out fuel pump. You would need to have the exhaust backpressure checked, and fuel pressure. Those would be the first two tests I would run after checking scanner data.

Anonymous said...

Thank you. One thing I forgot to mention was that sometimes the truck will run fine. Accelerates great, even up hill I can keep accelerating and increase my speed. Most of the time, however, the problem is there. I thought maybe it was something electronic that comes and goes.

BernardL said...

Guessing leads to parts changing, Wally. The process would be to get scanner data. If everything looks good there, even with the scanner hooked up and the truck acting up, the next step for me if the RPM isn't revving would be to test exhaust back pressure and fuel pressure. Sorry, but that's all I got.

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for your suggestions... now I have some things to check. You've been a lot more helpful than shops I have talked to.

Unknown said...

Hello Bernard,
So far I have taken it to a tranny shop last year and they just changed the filter and fluid, it ran ok but now it’s doing the same thing as before: When I try to leave in the morning I would have to wait a 10-30 seconds for the tranny to go into reverse then the same when I go to drive (during the winter it is a lot longer wait could be a couple minutes), but now on top of that it won’t switch gears it stays in 1st. All my gauges are working, before I go back to the shop and spend another $500 for fluid/filter or more on a rebuilt tranny do you think this would be the sensor? (Code P0760 is there, and I have checked the solenoid pin 4 & 6 and it does have between .5-9 ohms) it’s around 3 ohms so the Solenoid should be good. (I was going to try and see where the pin 6 goes to check continuity on the wire when I get home) The fluid level is at the correct spot, and is light pinkish. Thanks for your time, Chad.

Unknown said...

Shoot I meant to put this information into the post also.....

It's a 2004 Dodge Stratus 2.4L DOHC Motor X 127,000 miles and I just changed out the wonderful timing belt this weekend cause it broke, good thing this is a noninterference motor, and getting the timing is a pain.... If anyone wants advice on that send me an email the haynes manual isn't correct on that job.

BernardL said...

With that code, it's hard to tell if you need a complete rebuild, solenoid pack or a combination of both. It may even be the PCM/TCM computer going bad. I wish I had a magical fix for you, but your only real next step is to have it checked at a trans shop, Chad.

Unknown said...

I actually changed out the ECU which I was told was also the PCM. Oh well, they will just tell me probably that it will need filter/fluid change as that is what I always hear from the only shop around here.

For the rebuild I was actually going to try it myself because, I like to learn new things and it isn't my daily driver.

I was going to take the speed sensors out and clean them when I get home, but if you think that couldn't be it, I will just start taking the transmission out.

If I dig into it and looks like no way I can handle it, I will just buy a rebuilt one and give them mine for the core.

BernardL said...

I wish you had a different alternative than simply guessing. I doubt you'll like the inside of that tranny. Most professional shops swap out the insides of those because of damage and cracks they can't detect. Whatever you decide, please don't take on a rebuild of it without the OEM manual and proper tooling. Here is the link to the TSB about a possible problem with the PCM:

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2004/21-001-04.htm

Unknown said...

My PCM is after those dates (302 day of 2003) and the new one I don't even see a S/N and where it came from like the other huntsville one I have. Thanks for the information though!

Unknown said...

I have a 99 dodge Dakota 5.2 auto. The transmission won't shift out of 1 gear and my rpms go to 3000 and I only get to 25 miles an hour. I've put 4 transmissions in it and they all do the same thing right from the starr

BernardL said...

Luke, you need more than Internet help. You need to find a professional transmission shop to diagnose what's wrong with your vehicle. I don't know who put four transmissions in with the same problem, but they could not have tested the vehicle very well. Here's the note on my original post you must not have seen, because in your case, it would have been the first test I did after reading out scanner data:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:


For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Unknown said...

Hello I have a 98 dodge ram 1500 with A 360, I had a tore the rubber boot on the drive shaft, right in front of the tran,iI bought a new one and replaced it , and it tore again, then I realized it looks like a bolt should be holding the tail end of the tran and the frame together two eye holes match up but there is no bolt. And it seems the tranny may shift left to right and possibly up and down if bumpy enough road's. Is that the reason for the rubber sleeve ripping ? And what kind of bolt or part would I need ???

BernardL said...

Take a digital picture of the area, Jay. Take it and the VIN number to the dealer. They have exploded views of all of it.

Yes, anything out of place can cause the boot to rip. Put stands under it, and turn the wheels in neutral while watching for what may be close enough to hit.

Unknown said...

I got a 2001 dodge ram 1500 5.9 automatic. I do play in the mud but I don't work the tranny hard at all. One day after I had the truck out. I was going down the road and it started to slip and last everything. I got out and it was dumping atf on the ground from the bell housing but I let it sit for a couple mins then it works fine and does not leek. But I got to come to a dead stop for it to kick down to 1st gear. Now it does it after 1 to 2 hours of riding around. I did not run a scanner on it yet. You got any ideas why its done that. Thanks for the input

BernardL said...

My guess would be you overheated the transmission, causing front pump cavitation, where the pump tried to circulate froth. It probably blew the front pump seal. I don't think anything easy is going to fix it, Haylee.

Unknown said...

I have a 03 dodge ram 1500. I removed the cluster to replaced a burned out light bulb behind the rke module and now the speedometer does not work properly. It will read 45 mph at 5 mph and will stay there at any speed until coming to a stop. The speedo worked fine before it was removed. All other gauges work fine, no warning lights on. During gauge sweep test the speedo never goes past 45 mph. The ignition switch is starting to go bad, could the be the problem? Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.

BernardL said...

The ignition switch can certainly cause a number of glitches, but coincidences in vehicle repair are few and far between. I believe if you cannot find a loose ground wire or bad connection (bent pin while reattaching) or something of that nature, you may have to have the cluster rebuilt, Johnny.

T-Bird said...

I have a 2004 Dodge Durango 4 wheel W/ Hemi While driving today it just stopped moving there was a whirring sound under the hood. The Trans. fluid was fine. It just wont move when I put it in gear. There didn't seem to be any event that triggered this it just came out of the blue. Any Ideas?

BernardL said...

Sorry T-bird, but I don't have magical powers. Without scanner data and codes, I couldn't even guess. It could be a massive front pump, converter, or solenoid pack failure. It could also be a trans control module failure. You need to at least have it scanned for codes.

Unknown said...

I have a 2002 dodge 2500 59l 24v Cummins. I had a edge programmer on it and I took it off the other day put my truck back to stock. And now when I drive it. It don't want to shift very well it's like it's in limp mode or something could that be the speed sensor but it seems like after it warms up it does fine drives normal shifts great. Least it did yesterday. today it's been pretty cold temperature hasn't got about freezing and is kind of drove like its in limp mode all day not really want to go above 20 30mph but it will solwly creep up. just don't drive like it should. Can you help me out any?

BernardL said...

Wades, read the answer above your comment. With no data, I have no clue. My advice is to take it into a professional transmission shop, and have it diagnosed, and at least the pan pulled down to see if there are any shards or metal fragments.

Unknown said...

hello bernard, I hope you didn't already answer this question. but i replaced the output speed sensor on a 2001 dakota, as i removed the old one a lot of transmission fluid came out, I believe this is not normal. Does this mean that something else could be wrong with the transmission? will it be ok as long as i put more transmission fluid in the truck?

BernardL said...

My guess is you had the truck on a slight incline, and that's what caused more than the usual drainage from the speed sensor point... your driveway perhaps. Yes, run it until the truck warms up on a LEVEL surface, and add fluid as needed. Yes, the truck has to be running while checking the fluid.

Unknown said...

Hi Bernard. I have a 04 dodge 1500 with the hemi. and it intermitantly stalls at stop signs after it surges. had it hooked to a computer, NO codes. however it was reading both front speed sensors saying truck was going 34 mph and the rear sensor at 0 while parked. while driving it, the front still say 34mph, while the rear sensor states proper mph. disconect the front sensors, same mph and throws NO code. what does your wise mind say?!? HELP!!

2000durango said...

Bernard I just purchased a 2000 dodge durango with the 5.9l it has the 12 bolt hexagonal rear differential and was low on fluid so I removed the cover drained it put a new gasket on and refilled it but this morning while I was heading to work all the fluid leaked out of the rearend again and the speedometer quit working the brake light is on the abs light is on and the check engine light is on I scanned it I have a p0500 code coming up which is the speed sensor cut will this make all those lights go off and how do I get the rear end to retain the gear oil

BernardL said...

2000Durango - The only way you can stop the fluid from coming out is find the leak. You may have an axle seal leaking badly, in which case there will be gear lube washing down over one or both of the rear wheels.

There is a vent reservoir kit for those listed in a Tech Service Bulletin. Check with your dealer using your VIN number to see if yours is one of the trucks listed in the bulletin.

As to the speed sensor problem, all you can do is check for broken wires, bad connectors, and replace the speed sensor. It may or may not cure all your dash problems.

Unknown said...

Hi Bernard. I have a 04 dodge 1500 with the hemi. and it intermitantly stalls at stop signs after it surges. had it hooked to a computer, NO codes. however it was reading both front speed sensors saying truck was going 34 mph and the rear sensor at 0 while parked. while driving it, the front still say 34mph, while the rear sensor states proper mph. disconect the front sensors, same mph and throws NO code. what does your wise mind say?!? HELP!!

BernardL said...

I have not run across your particular problem, Jeff. If I'm correct in assuming you're reading the front ABS wheel speed sensors, and disconnecting them does not make a difference, I would try disconnecting the battery for a half hour, touch the two battery cables together for thirty seconds - then rehook the cables back up and see if there are any changes. If there is no change, then I'm afraid you'll have to go searching for inadequate grounds to the computer and connections. That it doesn't set any codes is very odd, and points toward a computer problem.


Bernard

old shade tree mech said...

Hi Bernard, let me run this by you with as much detail as i can. 97 dodgr ram 1500, 5.9, just put a rebuilt tranny in it. it has 164000 or so miles on it. it popped a cylinder 3 misfire, so i pulled plugs, cap rotor and wires and replaced all of it and yes they were pretty worn out. a few days later my son complained that when it downshifted, it would not speed up. I explained to him one of my old experiences with a gm that did that to me going down the interstate and turned out when i tore it down, cam lobes were worn off and few crank bearing were destroyed. I told him to take it in to his shop class and run a compression check and 2 of the 8 cylinders have 100 and 110 respectively. all others range from 75 to 50. I know it is not a good sign but the truck has never acted like that before. Dont know if maybe the tranny output sensor would cause it, but reading your responses, i thought it would be worth the question, before i pull it out and tear it down for a look. i might also add that his "shop teacher" didnt put the wires back on in the correct firing order so i really dont know how much i trust his readings! :)

BernardL said...

Meany. With that low of compression, you only have the option of confirming the readings, or ignoring them and driving it as long as it keeps going. Changing the speed sensor isn't going to put a can of compression into your engine. If you in actuality have low compression, talking about it on the Internet won't do you much good. That is a basic that would have to be handled first before you parts change electrical components. Double check the findings from the first test, and make a decision.

Unknown said...

What is the part called that connects to the speed sensor for the transmission

BernardL said...

I'm not sure what you mean, Holly, but the part that connects directly to the sensor is an electrical wiring connector and harness. There is a picture of the connector on the fourth picture of the post.

Unknown said...

Awesome detailed information, I did countless research. My check engine light came on on my 99 Dodge ram 1500 5.9, took it to O'reilly's had them do a diagnostic scan. The code came up po720=output speed sensor, first time changing it but wasn't sure where it was. The old sensor number was 04800879, my new sensor was s8023. These pictures do help. Thanks!

BernardL said...

Thanks for the update, James. I'm glad the pictures helped.

Jeremy said...

Hi Bernard. I have a 94 dodge ram v8 4x4 that won't shift out of 1st. I was driving fo a hour and stopped for 5 minutes and the started it back up and took off and it wasn't shifting. It didn't show any signs of problems before hand and it doesn't have a check engine light on. I've checked the fluid and all the plugs and lines coming in and all are good. I was told could be a solenoid but was wondering if it could be something else. Thanks Jeremy

BernardL said...

The next step, Jeremy, is to take it into a reputable transmission shop to have line pressures checked. I don't think you can go any further without hands on physical checks.

Dameonrose said...

Dameon

Hey Sir-

I have a 05 Durango, and in the morning and after work, after its been sitting for a while I have slow shift into 2nd, once it warms up there are no problems. What are your thoughts sir?

BernardL said...

Dameon, without codes, the only test I can give you if the transmission has been serviced already is to do the test at the bottom of my post. It should only be done by a professional:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Unknown said...

I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 5.2 auto tranny. My abs light, brake light are on and speedometer stopped working I just replaced the speed sensor on the tranny but nothing worked. The check engine light is gone and my brake system if almost brand new. What could be going on??

Unknown said...

Oh forgot to say the transmission works good and every other gauge works to just the 2 light and the speedometer don't work

BernardL said...

Thomas, without scanner data, how could I possibly know? On vehicles with computer controls, you're shooting in the dark unless you get reliable scanner data and codes to point out the problem. You could have anything from a bad ground lead to a faulty body control computer.

Unknown said...

The vehicle code that came from the check engine light was po500 I just replaced the output speed sensor and the sensor on the differential

BernardL said...

My guess is a broken lead between the speed sensor and computer, if you used OEM replacement sensors. If you didn't, then everything could be up in the air.

The first thing I would do at the shop with your intermittent symptoms would be testing all leads from the speed sensor. Then if they checked out I would run it with scanner hooked up, and do a tap test on the PCM.

Unknown said...

I have a 98 dodge 1500 2wd with the 318 just got done puttn a tranny in and it won't shift will move forward and back won't shift out of 1st have no code light on but my speedo not workn could this have affect with the problem I'm having?

BernardL said...

Yes, Jeremy, without a speed signal, the computer will have no idea when to shift. You must have it scanned and diagnosed first before doing anything else. No, I cannot pinpoint a problem on the Internet without scanner readings and tests. It has to have a speed signal, and the only way to tell that is with a scanner.

kay jay said...

I have a 98 Dodge Neon the transmission pan became loose and leaked lots of fluid. We replaced the pan but now the vehicle will not catch gears. (Reverse , Drive, etc. )
Would could possibly be wrong ? The gear shift is extremely loose as well. ..

BernardL said...

Kay jay. My guess would be the transmission is ruined.

Unknown said...

I have 03 Ram 1500 4x4, the 4x4 indicator light stays on while in 2 wheel and turns off in 4x4. what could be the problem? I have looked through your past posts and could not find an answer. Thanks!

BernardL said...

If you've read the other posts, Frank, you know I can't even make an intelligent guess without codes from the computer or scanner data.

Unknown said...

My 96 dodge ram 2500 4x4 stifts fine when you first take off then when you stop and take off again will shift to second but will not shift to third. Then if you stop shut it off the restart it will shift fine again till you stop then have to repeat any ideas?

BernardL said...

Read my answer to Frank right above your question, Del. I don't have a clue without a code or scanner data. You need to get a professional to do a diagnostic check.

Unknown said...

I HAVE A 2000dodge Durango that wont shift out of 1st gear....check engin light came on also.....it shifts into first gear with no problem but will not shift into 2nd gear at all...fluid is toped off...everytging was fine yesterday, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Unknown said...

Also unhooked the battery, that also did not help, leads me to believe its not a speed sensor, but im totally lost when it comes to this

BernardL said...

Antonio, without knowing what code is being set, or some basic scanner data, it's impossible for me to even make a guess. If you're lost on it, take it in to a professional. This stuff does not involve magic tricks. Unless you get a diagnosis, you won't know what to replace or have replaced. Parts changing is an expensive hobby.

Unknown said...

Hi I just bought a 1998 dodge dakota sport ext. cab and the guy said it might need a automatic transmission cause it slipping, so i took it for a test drive and for about 10mins it drove fine then after it heated up a bit it felt like it was slipping and it reved up to about 4500 rpm in 1st gear and wouldnt shift so i let off and tried again and still did the same so i pushed it to 5200 rpm and it shifted into 2nd then 3rd just fine even overdrive what could this be?? any ideas?no shavings in the trans and fluid dont smell burnt. If trans is bad will a 2001 bolt up to a 98 if they are the same motor? Also ran diagnostic on it and it thru a code of p1762 and that is a power-train code

BernardL said...

Patrick, that P1762 is a governor pressure sensor offset volts too low OR too high code. You've had a failure of the Governor Pressure Solenoid and or circuit. That will have to be fixed before you can check anything else.

Unknown said...

Great post. I have a dodge thats hard to shift into high gear. Runs high RPMs have to shift with gas petal. My speedometer stopped working for a few days but is working now. I read your entire post but had a couple questions. It is not setting off a code but the speedometer not working has me wondering it may be a speed sensor? Is it possible for sensor to give an incorrect reading but appear to ECM that it is functioning properly? Also, is there a way to check it such as unplugging it and driving it? .... If it is the pressure solenoid, have you ever tried applying a higher voltage to the solenoid coil to try and free solenoid up?

BernardL said...

Here's the part you missed in the post, Adam. You need this test done if there are no codes:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Unknown said...

Hi Bernard, I have a question concerning a 2001 Dodge Intrepid 3.2L. The other day I was driving on the highway, I felt a jerk and slowed down to the stoplight ahead. I was in drive and not using the autostick. The car would not move when the light turned green and I switched between gears, N, and then autostick. I was able to put the car in 3rd. I pushed the car to the turn lane and was able to coast to the nearest business. Just so happened to be Pep Boys (fixes cars but closed at that time). I pulled into a parking space but the car could not go between gears. no reverse, no neutral (just felt like the break was on), no drive when giving gas, no 1,2, only 3rd worked. The car would coast backward being on a hill and I could make the car go forward. I could not go to 4th at all. So the car is dead in the water. I took apart the console inside and checked for broken cables and the such, WD-40'd them. What could be the problem. It feels like I have the brakes on and the car wont move in R,D,1,2,4 and only 3 but not very well. I've had the TCM replaced a few years back has this gone bad again. I didn't drive it since this problem but need to no the problem at hand. Need to make repairs on in being on the mechanics parking lot.

BernardL said...

Michael, read the answer right above your question. You need to have a professional scan the system, and do the test outlined above. Your problem could be anything from a blown front pump seal to solenoid pack problems to a bad torque converter.

Unknown said...

Thanks, I will update you on what the problem is. I'm going to have it towed to a transmission shop tomorrow. Pep boys did a diagnostics and said there were a lot of codes. I won't know what the codes are until going up there tomorrow to pay the bill.

Jack45 said...

JACK45 have 2003 dodge ram 2500 diesel..at 60mph jumps from overdrive to third. rpm goes up-some times in and out of 3-4th. took to shop. oil flush&new oil. a week later started same thing..No codes come up, ----done is all it says.. any suggestion? Thanks Jack

Jack45 said...

jack45 2003 dodge ram 2500 Diesel Auto-trans highway speed 65mph jumps out of 4th to 3rd.. had shop flush new oil&filter.one week later started same thing..no codes come up only ----done. any suggjestions. overdrive solenoid? tran.gov.sensor/transducer sensor? T.P.S.output sensor? please Help! Thanks

BernardL said...

I can't guess, Jack, without testing info. Just by your description, you need a professional to do a hands on test of the solenoid pack, transducer, and pressure test as stated in my posts lower part.

Kissme said...

Did you find out what was wrong with your truck

Unknown said...

Hi i have a 1997dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.2l the truck runs great all gears work but once the tranny get to normal temperature it will stop goig into overdrive wat do u think is wrong with it

BernardL said...

I'll repeat again for everyone, Dan. I'm not a magician. I need much more data to even make a guess. You need to have your truck checked for codes pointing to the trouble area, and probably this physical check which I listed in the post will have to be done by a professional:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Unknown said...

Why the hell do you have a blog when all you tell people is that you aren't a magician and to take it to a dealership?

BernardL said...

I never mentioned a dealership, Adam. There are many professional shops other than dealers. I politely explain I can't even guess at a solution without data. That would be magical. Unfortunately, I'm not. :)

Others have given me codes, and data readouts where I've been able to make an intelligent guess. If you've read the original post, it pertained to a single often misunderstood code with pictures. I'm sorry you perceived the blog to be a 'Yellow Brick Road' to the Wizard of Oz. :)

Unknown said...

I have a 96 dodge Dakota that all of a
Sudden won't go over 45-50 mph and has a wining noise but it shifts fine 2 wheel drive 3.9 v-6 didn't want to hurt it no more so I parked it only drove it two miles like that and did that easy .
I have a 2700 dollar receipt from when I bought the truck the trans was completely rebuilt but warranty is up and receipt was not in my name.

BernardL said...

I'm sorry, Katie, but there isn't much I can tell you from reading that you have a loss of power and a whining noise over the Internet. You need to take it in for a professional diagnosis. Without scanner information or at least a computer code, I can't even give you a clue as to what's wrong from here.

matt said...

Hey Bernard, I have a 2004 Durango awd 4.7 motor. shifts up and down fine, if you hold a steady speed by foot or on cruise control runs fine, but move just a little more on the accelerator and the Durango bucks and jerks a little not really severe. Did a hand held computer check and it read PO7OO any ideals and thank you

BernardL said...

Matt, a PO700 code is a general trans fault code, which could mean anything. The jerking may not have anything to do with the transmission, especially if you've neglected maintenance on the ignition and fuel system for a long time. I'm afraid you're stuck with taking some parts changing gambles if you don't want to take it into a shop for a more thorough check. If you've not had anything changed or it's been many miles, you could start with plugs and the COP assemblies. It's expensive, but guessing from the internet, the jerking you're describing seems more like an ignition problem, or fuel injector. If you've been putting the cheapest gas you could find in it, your luck may have run out. My advice is get it diagnosed properly, because guessing is expensive.

matt said...

Thanks for responding back, I have done plugs and general maintenance on the motor, and changed trans fluid and filters on the trans at about 100,000. there is 150,000 on it now. Wouldn't the hand held computer tell you about the injector problem, the only code was the p0700, and we have run only 87 octane since we bought it new, thanks again.

BernardL said...

At a 150,000, you may have trans and ignition problems. From here, all I can do is guess which is why I advised getting it professionally diagnosed. Scanners don't pick up everything, especially code readers. You didn't say whether the PO700 was a history code or an ongoing check engine light on code, not that it would matter for a guess. If it's a hard code check engine light on code then you really need to get it into a shop that can access the TCM for more data on the problem. If it's a history code, it could be from a glitch caused after the trans filter and fluid was changed (aftermarket filters don't work well on those transmissions and can cause problems after a change). Also, if you do anything with your truck, you're way overdue for servicing. Check your manual for extreme service, and you'll find you should have been doing it more frequently, because anytime you do any hauling, etc. it's considered rough service. 87 octane at 'Rotten Robbie's' gas station is exactly what I meant about running out of luck with your fuel injectors. I would use nothing, but the highest octane name brand from now on from Chevron or Union 76, and add a couple of bottles of Chevron fuel injection cleaner. In cold weather borderline injectors and COP assemblies can cause very strange problems.

If you've never done the COP assemblies, and you're set on gambling instead of getting the vehicle diagnosed, my guess is change the plugs again along with the expensive COP assemblies. Guessing could get you new plugs, and COP assemblies, and you will still need a transmission diagnosis.

matt said...

hey Bernard, its me again, the Durango seems like it has a shutter/ shake when you press on the accelerator slightly after you are cruising along in overdrive and still does it when you press the tow/haul button on the shifter.Its funny, because you can stomp the accelerator from a dead stop or at 50 mph and it will shift and accelerate fine, it goes on the computer at the trans computer module (tcm) at 1:00 est today and I will have the exact transmission code, hopefully, thanks again for your time and consideration.

matt said...

# 1 misfire should I change the plugs hot or cold, I was told to do it when the motor was cold.

BernardL said...

Always change spark plugs cold, Matt. As I mentioned before, with a 150,000 miles, don't forget the COP assemblies. Your misfire is more likely coming from them.

Unknown said...

Hi I need your help with my 2000 dodge ram sport 1500 with a 5.2 4x4. When I got the truck the vehicle speed sensor needed to be replaced along with the rear abs sensor. after I replaced the sensors the shifting got a little better. But now I cant figure out why it shifts late from 2nd to 3rd. In order for it to shift id have to be going faster than 35mph and have the rpms higher than 2500. Also when its still in 2nd gear if I'm gunning it the trans will grab up till 3600 rpm. And then when shifting into overdrive it kicks hard. And the gas pedal is hard to push down after 65mph. I've already adjusted and lubed up the kickdown, flushed the trans and replaced the filter. I don't know what else to do because I don't wanna replace the trans. Any ideas? please help

BernardL said...

From what you've said, Dan, You'll need to have that test done mentioned in the post. It will confirm whether you'll need to replace the trans or look into the wiring and governor valves.

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

Monika Abendschoen said...

Dear Bernard,
I'm hoping you can help us. We have a 2003 Dodge Ram 3500. A few weeks back, the speedometer starting jumping up, however only when in the 35 to 45 mph range. Then it started doing it more frequently and then started jumping even when we weren't moving. We didn't think much of it till one day the truck wouldn't shift out of first gear. We would stop, put it into park and then back into gear, but it still wouldn't go beyond first gear. The only thing that worked was if we stopped, shut off the truck, then restarted it. We learned about the transmission speed sensor and replaced it with one purchased at a better parts store. Still the same problem. Speedometer jumping all the time and every once in a while, the truck wouldn't shift out of first gear. Purchased a Mopar brand one. Switched out it. Still had the same problem. Saw a kink in the wiring just past the connector and thought that might be the problem and replaced wiring and connector; still have the problem. We (including our mechanic) are at wits end and just don't know where to go from here. Can you please help?

BernardL said...

Not without data, Monika. I need some basis to make an educated guess, such as which speed sensor you replaced, and what codes and scanner data you had before you started parts changing. You mention a mechanic, but I doubt you have one knowledgeable enough to do a proper diagnosis. I suggest you take it somewhere an actual professional can check it over for you.

Monika Abendschoen said...

Thank you for contacting me back.
Here it goes from the start:
Speedometer started jumping.
Purchased transmission speed sensor. As far as I know there is only one.
Took to our mechanic (ASE certified/has worked on truck for years.)
Hooked up to computer. Got 0700 code: problem with transmission. Got 0720 code: problem with transmission sensor.
Put in new sensor. Hooked up to computer/no errors.
Took it out for a drive. Speedometer started jumping again. Returned, hooked it up to computer; got same codes again: 0700 and 0720. Truck also started not wanting to shift out of first gear. If we turned off truck and then restarted it, it would then shift out of first gear. This was intermittent.
Mechanic thought we should try a Mopar sensor. Purchased sensor and installed it ourselves (husband has done quite a bit of mechanic/electrical work/is competent). Speedometer still jumping.
Talked to people at Dodge dealership. Said that when they install the speed sensors, they always replace the connectors. Purchased connector/installed. Now not only is speedometer jumping and truck not shifting out of first, it is also stalling out when making a hard left turn and sometimes goes into neutral while driving down the road.
Called mechanic this morning. Said he would call us when he got a chance, but never did.
We thought there might be a short in the line from the transmission sensor to the PCM. Totally replaced line. Speedometer still jumping. Did a short test drive so we don't know about anything else.
At this point we think it's the PCM and think it should be replaced.
Do you by chance have any other ideas of what we should do? The dealership can't see the truck till Friday and that would be only for a diagnosis.
Would really appreciate any input you can give us regarding this. Thank you very much for your time and help.

BernardL said...

Monika, you're not paying attention to either the post you're commenting on, or my advice. My post clearly states there are more than one speed sensor. That's what the post is about. If you changed the one on the rear differential, you changed the wrong one.

Secondly, if you have a dealership in your town, they also have factory trained mechanics. Make an appointment with them, and get your truck checked by a professional. Your 'mechanic' was honest enough to admit he doesn't have a clue what your problem is.

Here's an example of why you need to have your truck checked professionally, because I can't fix it from the Internet. Behind the driver's front tire inner liner - there is a square connector where all the wires run through. You can get to the connector from the botom of the truck. Water contamination can cause a multitude of weird electrical problems. Disconnecting and cleaning the inside of the connector halves, and spraying WD40 into them can help. Again... I have no idea if that will help, or if you have the new connector wired correctly, or even if you replaced the correct sensor.

bullrider218 said...

i have a 2001 dodge ram 50 1/2 ton it acts like it`s taking off in higher gear then u have to get on high way get it up to about 45 before it shifts could the speed sensor?

BernardL said...

As stated numerous times in the comments, bullrider, I can't begin to even guess at what's wrong with your truck. You have not stated any specifics about your truck's engine, maintenance you've done, mileage, computer codes, or anything other than one symptom. Have your truck checked by a professional. Your problem could be anything from a plugged catalytic converter to a blown transmission.

jenna said...

Hello I have a 2009 dodge ram 1500 4x4 The problem is when i stop it shifts in to 4th gear a.k.a. 'limp mode' I am hoping its not the $500 transmission solenoid...any idea what is wrong? maybe it is a speed sensor? thanks

BernardL said...

Jenna, I don't mean to be rude, but please read the comments just before yours. Without data, codes, testing etc. I would have to be a magician to tell you what's wrong.

jenna said...

yeah just thought I'd give it a shot...thanks anyways.

BernardL said...

Sorry I couldn't help, Jenna. Find a reputable shop. If it's a really serious and costly fix, you can always decide then to fix it or get rid of it.

You can find a good shop, if they're on this iATN website. I've belonged for 20 years.

http://www.iatn.net/

Eddy Aguilar said...

I have a 2003 Dodge Stratus R/T 3.0 and have a code P0734 gear 4 ratio is incorrect. don't know what to do? Please help !

BernardL said...

That code usually means the trans is toast, Eddy.

Becky said...

I have a 2005 dodge durango 6 cylinder rear wheel drive and today was driving it and all of a sudden it would not go anywhere. Drive reverse low any thing. Any suggestions before we change the transmission. Comment as soon as possible please.

BernardL said...

I'm sorry, Becky, but you have no code information, or anything I could make an educated guess on. It may very well be the transmission needs replaced. You need to take it in to a reputable shop for a diagnosis.

Unknown said...

I have a 97 ram 1500 with a 318. Just pulled the old motor from the truck and replaced with a crate motor I bought. With the old motor, the grabs shifted fine with no issues, since new motor, trans won't shift out of first until you get up to 3000rpm and ease off the accelerator to get to shift, same for 3rd gear. Seems to shift fine when over 45 mph and with o/d turned on.

BernardL said...

Bryan. You'll have to at least have a computer scan done. I can't tell you anything from your description, other than something doesn't match between your engine replacement and the transmission. It has probably set a code.

Unknown said...

Hi I have a 2001 ram 2500 with a new transmission. The governor pressure shows 4.95v, 99% duty cycle and speed @ 107. On a friends truck it reads this if I disconnect the trans connector. I've checked all the circuits for a short but didn't find one. Can you tell me what I might be missing. I've checked the speed sensors & they seem to be ok. Thanks KRC

BernardL said...

Two things, Ken - you didn't mention having the computer scanned for codes, and you didn't mention doing the diagnostic check I have noted in the post:

NOTE: Here's a quick diagnostic check for major problems or governor transducer and wiring faults. I won't explain where any of the ports are because each person attempting this check should have the proper equipment, safety cautions, and manuals:

For checking a transmission similar to the one mentioned in the above post to tell if the problem is in the transmission or the wiring is to put a pressure gauge on the governor port and start the motor. You then pull the case connector and put the transmission in drive. You should see main line pressure and the transmission should go into 3rd gear. If you see no pressure then you know that the problem is in the unit and the transmission needs replaced. If you have pressure and the transmission goes to 3rd gear then you have to look at the wiring and governor valves.

I can't tell you anything with the info you have. You also didn't mention doing a continuity check on the sensor wires from the computer through the connector.

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